Hot wet smoking of silver eels

It is only silver eels, which I smoked by this method. Silver eels are eels, which were sexually mature and are on their way to west Atlantic southeast of Bermuda Islands also called Sargasso Sea to spawn at a depth of 7000 meters. They are thick and obese, so they are able to make the long journey of over 4000 km.

Just to dwell on the two types of eel, as we have in Denmark, I will briefly mention the subs:

Eels are called in its growth period "Yellow eels", because of the yellow color on the belly. In this stage distinguish between eels with pointed snout and narrow neck "tip head eel" and eel with broad snout and wide neck "wide head eel". Between these two extremes are, however, smooth transitions. In eels later silver stage the two types differ not much from each other in appearance. Breeding season begins with the eel - both "tip head eel" as "wide head eel" - takes silver on the belly and brass color on the sides. Eyes diameter increases considerably, snout tapers and eels are dark on their backs. During this period, cease the eel to eat, and intestines is dwindling. Eels can not be captured by either synthetic or natural bait, but in eel-traps. It is the eel which can be smoked, and it might be 10 to 16 years to reach that stage.

Hot wet smoking requires that smoke oven already highly heated before eels hang wet into the oven. I hang eels in when the temperature is 90 °C to 100 °C and the smoke has barely begun. Temperature drops significantly when the "Hat" to be opened 4 to 5 times for 4 to 5 spears with 20 to 25 eel hung in.

I've heard of a tip: Dip eels in hot water (lukewarm about. 40 °C) for a minute and hang them immediately into the smoke oven. This means that Eel-skin becomes soft and flexible, so belly edges stretches and do not cracks. I have now tried it and it works very well especially here in December, when the temperature of eels is very low. They have stayed in the brine at almost freezing point.

But first eel prepared for smoking:
I make a strong brine of 10%: For 12 l cold water, add 1.2 kg fine salt, it is equivalent to 20 - 25 large eels a 600 - 800 g per piece that fits my salt tank and smoke oven.

Eels slaughtered by sticking them behind the head with a short, pointed and sharp knife. Then they rubbed with salt to degum them.

Another known method of mass sedation and degumming eel comes from a German book: "Fish smoking." Come eels in a suitable high plastic barrel. Pour over them with a mixture of 1 part 25% ammonia, colloquially known as the triple ammonia, and 50 parts water. The barrel must be filled to the brim with the mixture when the eels come in and there should be a lid on the barrel. The amount of "ammonia water" depends on the amount of eel. The ratio is 1:1, 10 kg eel 10 l "ammonia water", mixed by 2 dl triple ammonia and 9.8 liters of water. After 10 minutes eels washed down with clean water and a scrubbing brush make the mechanical cleaning. The method has been banned in Denmark and is therefore not more used. Used in Norway, but they are not part of Europe. See this website page 69.

One has introduced a new method after it was prohibited to immerse live eels in ammonia. You put the live eels in a large black plastic bag, tie a strong knot on the bag and put it in the freezer. The bag should preferably be on something, so there is no direct contact to the bottom and sides of the freezers. Eels will now go to sleep, like they usually do in winter in freshwater. They sleep quietly and die for lack of air. After a week you can take the eels up and when they are thawed, you can very easily rub the slimy with a pair of gloves with studs on.

Cut the eel from head to anus, but be careful not to make a hole in gall bladder, remove the intrails with a spoon of solid steel and then brush the abdominal cavity clean with a stiff brush under cold water. Remember to cut around 8 to 10 cm behind the anus to remove the blood string that sits in the tail part. The cleaned and washed eel stayed in brine overnight and treated coldly, max 5 °C.

Large eels may well lie in 12 hours, but small eels only half. Remember that water temperatures should not exceed 5 °C. It is no problem in November and December, but otherwise one must use a refrigerator.

Eels cleaned with a stiff brush in the brine and then taken up and presented in a new tank with clean, cold water, so excess salt comes from, otherwise the eels become white on the skin. Wash the eel well in cold water for blood and slime residues as the brine has forced out of the eels. Then put the eel on a double skewer. My double skewers are made of 4 mm stainless steel rods, pointed at both ends. Double skewer inserted through the head from the back side facing belly side 2 cm below the chest fins on each side of the spine. This applies not to damage the spine, as the eel fall down.

Now smoked eel:
Oven temperature starts as I said at 90 °C to 100 °C. Eels are "cooked", or should we say get tender for 30 to 45 to 60 minutes with the "Hat" slightly ajar at this high temperature. Water vapor must escape. The eels must open in the belly, so the smoke can penetrate the body from the meat side. It is very important for a good result. Oven temperature is now lowered to 65 °C - 75 °C and eel smoked for 3 to 4 hours at this temperature. After I installed my actuator, I have no problem with keeping a constant temperature of 70 °C throughout. My damper at the top of the "Hat" is not used anymore but is now always fully open, so water vapor can get out of the oven. Cooling time is the time when the eels are in the smoke oven and electric heat is off, the "Hat" is opened and the heat goes below 50 °C. Eels suck the last smoke right into the meat.

Smoking time for eels naturally depends on the size of eel, and the smoke oven used. But common to all the eel is that the temperature inside the meat should be about 67 °C when the eels are smoked in order to avoid the development of bacteria. When I'm using eels from 500 to 800 grams the tender time is 45 minutes, smoking time 3 hours and cooling time 1 hour. Eels from 800 grams up to 1000 grams the tender time are 60 minutes, smoking time 4 hours and cooling time 1 hour. The weight is calculated from live weight.

I have not smoked small eel yet, but the time must of course depend on the weight. Eels below 300 - 400 g are not smoked by me. These eel I fry. I would think that these eels only must have 3 to 4 hours in total.

You can check if the beginning temperature has been correct. Belly opens up nicely, if a suitable temperature. Skins by belly edges detache itself from the flesh and rolls outwards, if the temperature is too high. If the temperature is too low the belly does not open.

You can test whether the eels are tender, press the back side just below the head. The flesh must yield to turn immediately to swell. A cut in the back can also show whether the meat is white. It shall not be transparent or glassy.

My approach is obviously based on my smoke oven. Oven type and weather - high pressure - low pressure - humidity can affect smoking and tender time. Besides the size of eels, of course.

Weight loss for an eel of 800 grams in weight:
Entrails and gills around 6%
Kidney Blood and slime around 2%
Fat and fluid loss by smoking around 16%
Total loss approx. 24%
An eel of 800 grams live weighs = 600 grams after smoking.
Losses on filleting: Head, tail, bones and skin is cut away around. 26%
Total weight loss approx. 50% of the eels live weight. So, you smoke an eel at 800 g live weight, you get approx. 400 g eel fillets.

Postscript: After the eels are tender in the first 30 to 45 to 60 minutes at a high temperature, it is important to get water vapor out of the smoke oven. Therefore the "Hat" must have an opening of 1 to 2 cm at the front the first hour. Then "Jethætten" can handle the rest. You may experience some strange recipes with strange times of less than 2 hours. Avoid these eels, they are not good. Eels from 500 grams to 1,000 grams must have from 4 hours to 6 hours with the right temperature and smoke to be really tasty and delicious.

Bon appetit.
Jørgen Walter

Also try the other recipes

[Hot smoking of salmon & trout]  [Hot smoking of garfish]  [Hot smoking of harvest herring]

[Hot smoking of mackerel]  [Hot smoking of cod roe]  [Homemade smoking cheese]

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